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Some people espouse setting the heights with the bed and possibly nozzle at running temperatures. I wonder if this is over the top or not to consider thermal expansion

Amazing work! I want to print this for cosplay but I couldn't find this design on your blog. Any chance you could send me the model?

FYI: 80g/m² and .08mm are two totally different kinds of measurements!! 1-GSM (grans oer square meter) is a measurement of "Weight" not thickness. 2-A4 paper thickness can vary (from .05mm -.10mm) depending on quality and type. Since the paper thickness worked better here, He should have measured the paper thickness with calipers. Then used the corresponding size feeler gauge. Example: If the paper "thickness" is .1mm use a .1mm feeler gauge.

Good afternoon. How can I write to you about creating a 3D model? do you have an email?

Just glad to see your still healthy and active, great beard!

G'day! That beard still slays!

You videos were a fine help to me when i first got into 3d printing. Im not saying you need to revive the chanel completely but it was nice to see this pop up!

I am also a 3D printer geek, do you have a link to your 3D printing channel?

I would take it one step further and probably pis.... some people off. Almost everything you will make on a 3D printer, you can model with blender. But it is probably easier for some people to work with measurements and primitives. And if something goes wrong in Blender, it's hard for a beginner to find the problem. You have to deal with topology .... . What I found to be much easier in Freecad f.e. is, if you have a sketch and you need to model with the exact measurements, it's easier in a sketch based parametric modeller. And what is also a problem is, if you have modelled a complex part and need to make it smoother, more highpoly, that's a problem, if the dimensions have to be exact. You have to know the resolution before you start modeling. You have to know how many vertices a circles needs to be printed a 100% round. Those problems don't exist in a parametric modeller.

What happened? your last video was posted 3 years ago, I enjoyed watching every video you made, I hope your healthy and still carrying on.

Have you shared your enclosure design? Thanks Vince

This is fantastic.

Looks like you have more than one piece of paper when leveling the bed in the video.

I enjoy animation (being a silly bugger) and puppetry but would love to know how the hinge of the mouth works, i cant quite make out what youve done there? I model in Maya and zbursh and houdini whatever works. you are very clever sir, would love to know how the young ones reacted too lol :)

I had hell with my new S1 Pro prints sticking. Unless I used a raft it was rare anything stuck, and if they did they'd usually curl, or get kicked off the bed halfway through. At my wits end I was going to 1: Buy a new bed for the new printer (I was really angry with PEI Bed hype), or 2: Calling Creality support. I tried feeler gauges for the bed and Probe calibration and it fixed everything. After checking my A4 printer paper it's 120g 😏

How did you make this puppet?

Have you ever managed to print TPU or any other flexible material on your non heated bed printer ?

I've been thinking hard about this and I'm wondering if you got some liquid latex and coated it. I'm horrible at explaining things, but in a way, using the 3D printer as a 'skeleton". You could make a hyper realistic marionette or puppet.

You never wipe a bed after leveling. that pressure is more than enough to throw off the leveling work.

Looks like too much damn work!

And folks, that’s why you go with auto bed leveling. It’s pretty easy to set up on any 3d printer that doesn’t come with it stock.. Save yourself some headaches and time.

It’s simple…..the paper method trams the bed too high by the random thickness of the paper. Go to an engineering workshop….do you see any engineers using random pieces of paper as a feeler gauge?

80 gsm isn't a measure of the thickness of a sheet of paper. With a constant of 80 gsm the thickness can vary betweem .08mm and .12mm depending on what the paper is made of and the finish that has been applied. Humidity and heat will changed the thickness as well.

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should you not set the gap when the bed is heated? what thickness are you using with feeler gauges?

You could have inset the cylinders. Then held alt select in the Inset circle line of the middle cylinder. Then shift S move 3D cursor to selection. Then brought in a plane and moved it down 35. And extruded it 10

I bet I have a braising rod of that diameter!

Lightwave ! now that brings back some memories, I used to use it with my Amiga 3000 and my video toaster card in the early '90s for animated titling for video's. I used to freelance for videographers, weddings and corporate training video's and the like

I did not have a heated bed to start with on my Mendel 90 in 2012 and I was able to print PLA just fine I am trying to cut my energy costs and thought that being able to print PLA without heating the bed again will save quite a bit of money over a year, I print on mirrors usually and with no products, however, I shall use Purple gluestick on a cold bed to see if that works, I only had the idea 10 mins ago and haven't had the chance to try this out yet

Neither, they should redesign the bed leveling system. It's really bad. The bed shouldn't even need a leveling system, it should be leveled from the start, without using spring screws. The whole concept is stup.

badly adhered skirt on the paper leveled run tells the story - nozzle too high. You can on-the-fly tweak that. Using paper density to denote thickness can give varying results. Feeler gauge - Use a slightly thicker / thinner feeler to find your adhesion sweet spot. Shim stock is also available.

how do i minimize elephant foot? I absolutely hate the paper method its so inconsistent and everyone says something different. Im getting a feeler guage tomorrow. Parts Im printing need to fit together and with the elephant foot Im going to have alot of cleaning to do

That is very cool! Can i download it somewhere?

Arquivo?

I have seen several videos on using a feeler gauge vs. paper. None have addressed my concern. Is there a risk of damage to the print nozzle tip trying to jam a metal strip into the gap between the print bed and the nozzle?

i still cant use blender

I've always wondered how these things were designed. Is there some tutorials for blender that would explain what you are doing? the Silent part is impossible to follow. I feel like each step could have its own video. Like around 1:11 you're adjusting the inset rectangle, right before that you added a second thin row along the curve.

Might it make sense to split the difference and just up the feeler gauge to .09? That you for the video!

Will the level have to be done all the time after each model. Or after turning on the printer.

Amazing but the link at the description doesn't has the plan. 🙁

That convinced me. I know I'll be printing my PLA and PETG over 200 degrees. I think it's about how "risk averse" you are and how skeptical you are about the wisdom of what everyone else is doing. EDIT: Kind of late now (I'm sure you've solved it) but I have a similar by-the-window situation with occasional strong wind and just discovered a thing on Amazon called a "Draft Blocker Backdraft Damper Duct" for $18. It's a one-way valve or sorts.

2022 Feeler gauge all the way

Any update videos to this? looks awesome

seems to me that the technical drawing was drawn too simply. It would seem that the brace would have a flat top and just be cut into the circle how the mechinist could get it to work. It doesnt make sense that the brace would have such a specific curved surface

Are you still looking at peoples files to see if the are ok. I’m so confused by blender I have a model I want to print that will be big

amazing!

I just started printing last week and have been at it non-stop. Of all the videos I've seen about the "paper technique", this one is possibly THE BEST! (I wish I had found it sooner) Very informative, especially for new folks who totally unfamiliar with how it should feel. I just got my feeler gauge yesterday and will use both going forward. The more tools, the better! Thank you. PS. Since the manufacturers don't seem to have a video on the matter as thorough and succinct as yours, they should link to this!

I cannot believe I just found this video. Ive been attempting to model this exact helmet but i have been absolutely struggling. Thank you so much for not only your tutorial but your incredible STL file as well!!

The music though